FAQ
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Can I mix a little water with my AS paint?
Yes, since AS paint is water-based, it’s okay to mix a little bit of water into the paint; however, don’t add the water directly into the can or jar. If you add water directly into the can, bacteria can grow...not sure if or how this affects the properties of the paint, but I have heard it makes the paint smell. Avoid this by simply pouring the paint and water into a separate cup for mixing. Adding water to AS paint will make it apply a little smoother and stretch the paint out a little bit more. You can also add water to AS paint for a white-wash look! See this blog post.
Do I need to use a special brush to use AS paint?
No, I switch back and forth between regular flat brushes and the AS round brush. I prefer the AS brush because it creates a nice smooth texture with the paint. I’m assuming the AS bristles are high quality which is why it causes the better finish, but I have no idea. To each their own!
If I use the AS wax, will my piece be waterproof?
Waterproof is a strong word... think water resistant... after 2 or 3 coats of wax. I have an end table that I have let a cup sweat on because I’m a fool. I just wiped off the table and later, there wasn’t a ring. Now I have may have gotten lucky, but that’s been my experience with AS wax and water so far.
How many coats of wax should I apply if my piece is going outside?
So I’ve read on other blogs that you shouldn’t put any wax on if the piece is going outside. I’m assuming this might have to do with the wax getting too hot out in the sun, but again, I have no idea. Right now, I have a rustic flag piece that is on my screened-in porch and it is not waxed. I’ll let you know if I experience any issues!
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What do I do if something pink is bleeding through my AS paint?
I've experienced this with some older pieces...you put on a coat of paint, let it dry, and when you come back to it, there are these pink streaks coming through your paint. No bueno! What you do is add a thin coat of Shellac on top of these spots and repaint! To be safe, you can add a coat of Shellac on any old piece so as to avoid this step later.
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Do I need to prep bare wood before painting?
No, but if you're using AS paint, I'd recommend putting a coat of Shellac over most of the bare piece first. Bare wood likes to soak up AS paint so it'll help your paint go a longer way.
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Painting for a “Clean” Look
For a “clean” look, which is essentially a smooth finish, you can use either a regular brush found at your local hardware store or a circular brush. I have really grown fond of Annie Sloan’s circular brushes. They certainly aren’t cheap, but I love mine and I have no idea what makes them special. I try to keep my brushstrokes smooth and along the grain of the wood. AS paint dries quickly so it’s important to save any spots that may need touching up for later once the paint is dry. You’ll get a rough texture if you try and touch up spots that are only partially dry. That’s about it for painting! You can apply the second coat immediately after the paint is dry (which can be as quick as 10 minutes), but I like to wait at least an hour just to be safe. If you want the surface to be silky smooth, you can buff with a high-grit sandpaper (600-grit minimum).
I like to wait at least 24 hours before applying any wax to a piece. Apply the wax with either an AS waxing brush, a regular-person waxing brush (they’re usually round), or a lint-free rag (perhaps an old undershirt of your closest male relation?). For any of the scenarios, it’s best to put some wax on a paper plate first. Some colored paints can get on the brush or rag and then color the wax...no bueno. DO NOT apply the wax on too thick. If anything, start out with a thin coat. You can always add a second if it needs it. Adding too thick of a layer of wax can cause the color to look blotchy...no bueno. Wipe off any excess with a rag. Let the piece cure (aka sit there) for 24 hours before using.
Painting for a “Vintage” Look
Okay so this is for the distressed or “vintage” look. I really prefer to use my AS brush for this and I once saw Annie Sloan herself brush in an “X” like pattern on a piece. Feel free to try this out. I do a range of brush strokes sometimes, but mostly I still like to keep them straight with the piece. Depending on how distressed you want the piece to look, you might not want to thoroughly paint every nook and cranny. If there are ornate engravings on the piece, it might look more legit to leave the deeper parts of the engraving as the natural wood. This will just depend per person so trust your instincts!
You can distress using sandpaper before or after you wax. Personally, I find it best to first put a coat of AS clear wax on, then distress with a fine grit sandpaper (maybe 180 grit?) and then either put a second coat of AS clear or add a first coat of AS dark wax. If you do distress before waxing, make sure you have a drop cloth down as this will create some dust. I have heard that sanding before waxing will save some elbow grease!
When it comes to the dark wax, please try it out on a tester board over clear wax. This wax comes on a little strong so you may want to practice with it first. Typically, I only add dark wax on specific spots where I want to emphasize the distressed spots or some ornateness on the piece. Again, wipe off any wax with a rag.
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Advice on Stenciling
With stenciling, the main thing to avoid is getting paint outside of your stencil. Seems simple because this is why you have a stencil in the first place, but I definitely have failed at this my first go around. First off, I'd recommend using a sponge brush (preferrably, a round one). And then, the key is to make sure you don't put too much paint on your brush. Dip your brush in the paint and then either blot or wipe off a couple times before using it on the stencil. To learn how you can make your own stencil, go to this blog post.